Cowl Neck Tunic Vest Pattern

Please read the pattern usage rules before using this pattern.

Materials:

  • 3-4 skeins, #4 medium weight yarn (I used Big Twist’s Sincerely yarn which is 322 yards/skein, consider buying an extra skein in case you need to adjust the size for your body/style preference)
  • Recommended hook size J/10-5.75MM
  • Stitch markers
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors

Key:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • St/Sts – stitch/stitches
  • FO – fasten off

Pattern:

NECK (rounds)

Ch 53, join the ends with sl st to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain when joining)

Rows 1-12: insert hook into 1st ch, sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 51 sts (should get you to 1st dc of row), join with sl st (52 stitches each row)

FO at end of row 12

**If you want a tighter neck, do less sts per row.  If you want a looser neck, do more sts per row.

**I put sts into the back side of the foundation chain – the side with 1 bar, not the side with a V shape.  It looks cleaner in my opinion.

SHOULDERS (rows)

Shoulder Row Diagram

**Starting from row 12 FO location, place stitch marker 13 sts to the left

**Return to row 12 FO location, place stitch marker 13 sts to the right (26 sts between markers)

**Place hook in st to the right of one of the stitch markers

Row 1: sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 2 sts (remove stitch marker)

Rows 2-7: turn work, sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 2 sts

FO at end of row 7

**(Place hook in st to the right of the other stitch marker)

Row 1: sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 2 sts (remove stitch marker)

Rows 2-7: turn work, sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 2 sts

FO at end of row 7

**You may need to adjust how many shoulder rows depending on your body size.  The rows should stop where your shoulder joins your upper arm (think where a shirt sleeve connects to the rest of a shirt).

FRONT (rows)

Front & Back Piece Partial Diagram

**It really doesn’t matter which side is the front or back, but I could see the seam where I joined rows on the neck piece.  I made the side with the seam the back.

**To start, you will be crocheting along the side of one shoulder row, row 12 of the neck and then the side of the other shoulder row.

Row 1: orient work so row 1 of the neck is pointing towards you (the side with the shoulder rows will be farthest from your body), insert hook into the dc at end of right shoulder row (remember you are crocheting along the side of the shoulder row, so the shoulder row sts will face the opposite direction of the front piece), sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in bottom half of same shoulder row dc (you can wrap around the base of the dc or insert your hook through st), *dc in the top of the next shoulder row dc st, dc in bottom half of same shoulder row dc (you can wrap around the base of the dc or insert your hook through st), repeat from * until you reach the base of the shoulder row where it meets the neck piece (there will be 2 dcs in the side of each dc row making up the shoulder piece – 14 sts)

(You have now reached the neck piece) dc into the st where the shoulder row joins the neck piece, dc along the neck piece (23 sts), (you have now reached the base of the opposite shoulder row) dc into the st where the shoulder row joins the neck piece (25 sts total)

(You are now crocheting along the side of the opposite shoulder row, so the sts will again face the opposite direction of the shoulder row) dc in bottom half of the 1st dc of the shoulder row (you can wrap around the base of the dc or insert your hook through st), dc into top of the same dc, *dc in bottom half of the next dc of the shoulder row (you can wrap around the base of the dc or insert your hook through st), dc into top of the same dc, repeat from * until you reach the end of the shoulder row (there will be 2 dcs in the side of each dc row making up the shoulder piece – 14 sts)

**In total, row 1 should have 53 sts

Rows 2-52: turn work, sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 52 sts (53 sts)

FO at end of row 52

**If you want the front to hang longer, add more rows like 2-52.  If you want the front to hang shorter, do fewer rows like 2-52.

BACK (rows)

**Flip work so the front is facing down, against your lap.

**To start, you will be crocheting along the side of one shoulder row, row 12 of the neck and then the side of the other shoulder row.

Row 1: same as row 1 of the front piece

Rows 2-63: same as rows 2-52 from the front piece

**If you want the back to hang longer, add more rows like 2-63.  If you want the back to hang shorter, do fewer rows like 2-63.

**LEAVE HOOK IN WORK

BORDER

**Sc around the outer edge.  When you crochet along the sides of the front and back pieces, there will be 2 sc per dc just as there was in row 1 of the front and back pieces.  Put 2 sc in each corner (there will be 2 per side at the bottom of the front and back pieces)

**FO when you reach your starting place.

SIDES (rows)

**You may need to adjust where you place the side pieces depending on your body type.  Move them up or down the sides of your work, and add/remove rows/# sts as you see fit. The top and bottom pieces don’t need to be evenly sized; it all depends on how you want it to fit.  It’s more important to horizontally line up the placement and make the top pieces match each other in size and the bottom pieces match each other in size. The way I describe left the tunic a little loose around my waist.

**(Counting dc rows, starting at shoulder rows) Place a stitch marker 14 dc rows down both sides of the front and back pieces, put the stitch marker through the sc border st aligned with the 14th row (4 stitch markers)

**(Counting sc border sts) Place another stitch marker 13 sts down from the 1st stitch marker on both sides of the front and back pieces (4 stitch markers)

**(Counting sc border sts) Place another stitch marker 7 sts down from the 2nd stitch marker on both sides of the front and back pieces (4 stitch markers)

**(Counting sc border sts) Place another stitch marker 13 sts down from the 3rd stitch marker on both sides of the front and back pieces (4 stitch markers)

**Orient work so the front is facing up, left side of the tunic against your body and the right side near your knees.

Right Side Top Piece

Row 1: insert your hook in the same sc st as the top stitch marker in the front piece (right most marker, closest to the shoulder rows), sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 12 sts (should stop at the next stitch marker – 13 sts), remove stitch markers as you pass them

Rows 2-3: turn work, sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 12 sts (13 sts per row)

**Attach row 3 to the back piece by lining the end stitches up with the corresponding stitch markers you placed on the back piece.  You can either FO at the end of row 3 and attach by sewing the corresponding sts together with your yarn needle – or – you can sc the corresponding sts of the side piece and the back piece together on the inside edge of your work and then FO.  I did the sc attachment method because it seemed sturdier.

Right Side Bottom Piece

Row 1: same as right side top piece

Rows 2-3: same as right side top piece

**Attaching side piece to back piece instructions same as Right Side Top Piece

Left Side Top Piece

**With the front piece facing up, rotate your work 180 degrees so the right side of the tunic is against your body, and the left side of the tunic is near your knees.

Row 1: insert your hook in the same sc st as the bottom stitch marker in the front piece (right most marker, closest to the bottom edge), sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 12 sts (should stop at the next stitch marker – 13 sts), remove stitch markers as you pass them

Rows 2-3: turn work, sc and draw up a loop (counts as 1st dc), dc in next 12 sts (13 sts per row)

**Attach row 3 to the back piece by lining the end stitches up with the corresponding stitch markers you placed on the back piece.  You can either FO at the end of row 3 and attach by sewing the corresponding sts together with your yarn needle – or – you can sc the corresponding sts of the side piece and the back piece together on the inside edge of your work and then FO.  I did the sc attachment method because it seemed sturdier.

Left Side Bottom Piece

Row 1: same as left side top piece

Rows 2-3: same as left side top piece

**Attaching side piece to back piece instructions same as Left Side Top Piece

FINISHING SHOULDERS & YOUR PROJECT

**Put on your tunic (yay!).  If you like how it fits and you like how the shoulders lay on your body, you can stop here, and weave in the loose ends.  If you feel you need to make some adjustments, do it now before finishing the shoulders.

**The purpose of this step is to fold in the shoulders and sew them in place on the inside.  You’d do this if you want your tunic to be more inwardly rounded and vest-like in the arm/shoulder area (i.e. less rectangular-shaped in the arm/shoulder area).  Count rows on the shoulder piece from the outside-in until you’ve noted how far in you want to fold the edges (fold it in from that point on both sides to test it out before you sew it in place).  Remember how many rows you want to fold in.

**Take off your tunic, and turn it inside-out.  Fold the outside edge of the shoulders in towards the neck piece (the fold should be sewn on the inside).  Hold it in place with a stitch marker (use at least one per side, lining the center sts of the shoulder piece rows up as you fold).  The fold should be thickest at the peak of your shoulders (center sts of the shoulder piece row) and should taper off as you fold down towards the armpit area.  You can add more stitch markers if you’d like to hold it evenly in place, but I just eyeballed it.

**With a strand of yarn (about two times as long as the area you need to sew to be safe), sew the border edge to the inside of your tunic through each sc of the border.  Try to keep the sewn sts through the backside of the sts so you can’t see the sewing when you turn it right-side out. Remove stitch markers as you come across them.

**Weave in the ends and you’re done!

Finished Piece

Thank you for trying out my pattern!  Put any questions in the comments below if you feel something is confusing.  Please note, I free-handed this piece and had not originally intended to document the pattern, so some of the steps/measuring are eyeballed.  

PATTERN USAGE RULES:

This pattern is subject to copyright protection.

You may NOT copy this pattern (or part of the pattern including images) and publish it to another website or publication. You can link to the pattern.

You may NOT sell this pattern. You may sell your finished crocheted items, but you must credit where you found the pattern if you do so.

When in doubt, please ask me for clarification on pattern usage rules. Contact me here.

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